Once again due to a deluge of summer rain the autumn fungi season has begun early in this country. And again the season has started with the usual suspects. Suileus leuteus better known as Slippery jacks, (Calvatia gigantea) Giant puff balls and (Marissmus oreades) Fairy ring mushroom.
A great many English chefs who have used wild fungi rarely give this humble mushroom a second chance due to its sometimes slimy appearance. However, i regard the majority of English chefs as un-educated and ignorant with respect to many of our wild fungi and plants(being generally obsessed with Chanterelles). Generally they will only be tackled by those chefs whose passion for food is tempered by an educated and adventurous palate and the desire to create.
for those fortunate enough to be able to find a quantity of slippery jacks i shall share with you the processes i believe transform this sometimes slippery fungi into something to be worthy of a gourmets plate.
Firstly one must remember that these fungi respond to greater rainfall than most and therefore will appear in huge numbers following persistent amounts of rain in the month of July. Their growth is very quick and can mature within just a few days. If picked during or following rain then there skin will be very slimy and shiny, quite unpleasant to many and off putting. However, if left to naturally dry before picking the skin will dry and become like any other fungi. Other alternatives are to pick whilst wet, take home and partially dry using a De-hydrator
Slippery jacks entering my De-hydrator for twenty mins to remove excess moisture
A low oven is a suitable alternative if used very carefully and at the lowest temperature possible. This should be less than 35 degrees centigrade. Leave the door open a jar to help release steam.
The next stage involves cutting the mushrooms into good bite size wedges before tossing in olive oil, broken sprigs of thyme and rosemary, cracked garlic cloves and a little sea salt and pepper.
Roast in a hot oven of 200 degrees centigrade for ten mins. Remove and transfer to a wire rack.
you will notice that the texture is firm, dry roasted ish with out slime and now ready to use. Especially useful in adding to risottos and stir fries.